Darwin looms larger
in the popular imagination than the size of its population might warrant.
It is, and has always been, a city of extremes: its climate, hot and dry
and then hot and humid, has presented an enormous challenge to European
civilisation since settlement; it was the site of Australia's worst natural
disaster and of its worst wartime disaster; and it is the country's furthest
outpost, its final frontier.
Modern Darwin is a twice rebuilt city, a place of gleaming metal and glass.
It is a city of the tropics: at every turn there is a rampage of lush
foliage and a flock of exotic birds. It is a city that has been brought
up as a child of many cultures: it owes its health and wealth to its Aboriginal
people on whose land the city rests; to the countries of nearby South-East
Asia; and to the peculiar spirit of those who have come back to rebuild
their lives there.
Darwin, with its population of around 79,000, is Australia's most northerly
and most remote city. It lies towards the outer edge of a large harbour,
on the shores of the Timor Sea. The land is swampy, mangrove territory
and the site is just high enough to protect the city - a few areas excepted
- from the devastation that the wet season can bring. Darwin has the most
differentiated wet-dry climate in Australia. Here you will find not four
seasons but two, the Wet and the Dry, although it should be noted that
the area's indigenous inhabitants have charted six distinct changes throughout
the year. Towards the end of the Dry season, during what is known as the
build-up, the days become increasingly oppressive.
Interesting Places
Aqascene - hand-feed fish at high tide
Australian Pearling Exhibition - for fascinating history of pearling
in northern Australia
Crocodylus Park - a safe way to get close to these reptiles
Darwin Botanic Gardens - take in the sights and scents of these
splendid tropical gardens
Deckchair Cinema - relax in a deckchair under the stars and see
a film (dry season only)
East Point Reserve - excellent recreational area and home to Darwin's
Military Museum and a colony of wallabies
Indo Pacific Marine - for an insight into the wonders of the tropical
ocean floor
Mindil Beach Sunset Markets - art and craft markets, food stalls
and free entertainment (dry season only)
Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory - fine collection
of Aboriginal artefacts and fascinating Cyclone Tracy exhibit
The Tour Tub - fun way to travel around the city's major attractions
Getting Around
If only every city was as easy to get around as Darwin is. Most of
the major attractions can be covered on foot and there are a number of
self-guide walking tours available from the Darwin Region Tourism Association.
Alternatively, you can board the Tour Tub bus for a friendly introduction
to the city's sights.
There is an extensive public bus network for travel beyond the city centre.
Hire a bike to explore the waterfront pathways, or take a cruise and acquaint
yourself with Darwin's fabulous harbour. Hire cars are widely available
and are a good idea if you intend to explore the wilderness beyond the
city limits (bus tours are the other option). Many attractions beyond
Darwin are accessible by conventional vehicle during the dry.
If you wish to hire a 4WD book early - they tend to be very much in demand.
Always make sure you understand the hire conditions. Many places will
not insure you for off-road driving. Look under 'Car Rental' in the 'Yellow
Pages' telephone directory - there are plenty of companies, both the large
national outlets, and the rent-a-bomb variety. Taxis are available.
Shopping
Darwin has a large array of food, clothing, gift and souvenir shops.
The main shopping precincts are the city centre and the Casuarina Shopping
Centre in the northern suburbs. The retail heart of the city centres around
Knuckey Street and Smith Street Mall. Here you will find a wide range
of shops, including clothing stores, banks, photo labs and travel agencies.
The mall is the setting for fashion parades, concerts and a variety of
buskers. Casuarina Shopping Centre is a suburban shopping complex, with
over 130 speciality shops.
One of the highlights of Darwin shopping is the wonderful selection of
Top End Aboriginal and Islander art and craftwork, ranging from traditional
items such as baskets and boomerangs, to modern garments featuring indigenous
designs. The Mindil Beach Sunset Markets are renowned for their quality
arts and crafts.
Restaurants & Nightlife
One of the great attractions of Darwin is the opportunity it presents
for tropical outdoor dining. This, combined with the delicate flavours
of South-East Asian cuisine, makes eating out in Darwin a treat for the
senses. Some of the city's most popular eating places include: Christos
in the Wharf Precinct, the food hall and restaurants in the new Transit
Centre, Mindil Beach Sunset Markets, the Parap Markets and the Cornucopia
Museum Cafe at the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory.
Darwin has long had a reputation as a live-it-up kind of a place, and
while jokes about public servants and empty beer cans still do the rounds,
the city boasts an increasingly varied and sophisticated array of night-time
activities. With the increase of international tourism, the big luxury
hotels have moved into Darwin and as a result there are a number of venues
offering discos, nightclubs, bars and restaurants. The MGM Grand Darwin
is one such place - a large complex housing Darwin's international casino,
as well as restaurants, discos and bars. Shenanigans, located in the Transit
Centre, is an Irish-style hotel and has become a central meeting place
for backpackers, as well as an after-five haven for local office workers.
The Wharf Precinct is a wonderful place to spend an evening. Gilligan's
Cocktail Lounge in the Christos restaurant complex on the wharf is a popular
place to relax before dinner or continue into the night. The Performing
Arts Centre hosts a variety of live events, while the historic Browns
Mart building is a venue for interesting live theatre. |
Alice Springs, at
the heart of the Red Centre and almost 1,500 km from the nearest capital
city, is en route to many attractions including Uluru (Ayers Rock). More
than 350,000 visitors a year pass through this well-maintained town in
the scenic MacDonnell Ranges. The area has a strong beef-cattle industry,
and more recent industries include cut-flowers, camel meat and date-growing.
The Todd River, which runs through town, is dry except after heavy rains;
for the Henley-on-Todd Regatta held annually in Oct. the boats are carried
or fitted with wheels. Between May and Sept. days are warm and nights
can be cold. For the rest of the year daytime temperatures rise to the
high 30s but nights are milder. Rains, usually brief, can come at any
time of year. Alice Springs has an interesting pioneering history that
began when the town site was seen by William Whitfield Mills in 1871,
when surveying for the Overland Telegraph Line. He named the Todd River
after the SA Superintendent of Telegraphs, Sir Charles Todd, and a nearby
waterhole Alice Springs after Lady Todd. The first European settlement
was at the repeater station, built for transmitting messages across the
continent. In 1860 John McDouall Stuart had passed about 50 km W of the
site. He named Central Mt Sturt after Captain Sturt, who had commanded
an earlier expedition; however, the SA Government renamed the mountain
in Stuart's honour. Pastoralist John Ross also helped look for a route
for the telegraph line. Until 1880 the repeater station was the only reason
for a handful of Europeans being in this remote area, then the Government
sent surveys north seeking sites for railheads. The township of Stuart,
3.2 km from the telegraph station, was gazetted in 1880 but the railway
remained unbuilt. Supplies were maintained by camel train from Port Augusta.
Even the discovery of gold at Arltunga, 113 km NE, did little to develop
Stuart. The Federal Government took control of NT from SA in 1911; from
that time the township developed slowly. The Australian Inland Mission
stationed Sister Jane Finlayson there in 1916 and the needs of the area
led to the establishment of Adelaide House nursing hostel in 1926. The
railway was completed in 1929 and the service became known as The Ghan,
after the Afghan camel drivers. As the township grew there was confusion
between Stuart and Alice Springs, only 3 km apart, so the name Stuart
was dropped.
In Town
In Todd Mall: Flynn Memorial Church, in memory of founder of Royal Flying
Doctor Service; Adelaide House, originally hospital now museum housing
pedal-radio equipment used by Flynn, and other memorabilia; Sounds of
Starlight Theatre, musical journey through Central Australia, Apr.-Nov.
(check session times at information centre); various outlets for Aboriginal
art and artifacts. Aboriginal Art and Culture Centre, Todd St. Royal Flying
Doctor Service base, Stuart Tce (tours daily). In Hartley St: Panorama
"Guth", a 360? landscape painting of Central Australia; National
Pioneer Women's Hall of Fame, Old Courthouse Building; Minerals House,
featuring geological and mineral displays (open Mon.-Fri.). Old Stuart
Gaol, Parsons St. Museum of Central Australia, cnr Larapinta Dr and Memorial
Ave. Technology, Transport and Communications Museum, Memorial Dr. Araluen
Arts Centre, Larapinta Dr., for performing and visual arts; magnificent
stained-glass window by local artist Wenten Rubuntja. At the northern
end of town: Anzac Hill, Wills Tce, for excellent views of town; School
of the Air, Head St. At the western end of town: Alice Springs Desert
Park, Larapinta Dr., features desert animals and plants and information
about their traditional use by Aboriginal people; film and interactive
displays. Across the river: Lasseter's Casino, Barrett Dr.; Olive Pink
Botanic Gardens, cnr Barrett Dr., Australia's only arid-zone botanic garden.
Self-guide town walks, brochure available. Market at Todd Mall, 2nd Sun.
Mar.-Dec., and Thurs. evenings in summer. Jan.: Lasseter's Indoor Challenge
(several competitions including backgammon, bridge and scrabble). Apr.:
Racing Carnival; Country Music Festival. May: Bangtail Muster. June: Finke
Desert Race. July: Camel Cup; Agricultural Show. Aug.: Rodeo. Oct.: Henley-on-Todd
Regatta; Masters Games (mature-age athletic carnival), even-numbered years.
Nov.: Corkwood Festival (art, craft, music and dance).
In the Area
Great variety of tours covering scenic attractions, Aboriginal culture
and specialist interests; by bus or coach, train, limousine, 4WD safari,
Harley-Davidson motorcycle, camel, horse, aircraft, helicopter or hot-air
balloon. To the north: Alice Springs Telegraph Station Historical Reserve
(3 km) with original stone buildings and equipment, historical display,
guided tours, bushwalking and wildlife. To the north-east: At Gemtree
(135 km), Mud Tank zircon field offers prospecting for zircons, guided
fossicking tours and your gems cut at the caravan park. To the east: Pitchi
Richi Sanctuary (2 km), an open-air museum displaying William Ricketts
clay sculptures; Frontier Camel Farm (7 km) features camel rides, reptile
house and museum displays highlighting importance of camels and Afghans
to the area; nearby, Mecca Date Gardens, Australia's first commercial
date farm; Alice Springs Winery, NT's only commercial winery (11 km);
Emily Gap (13 km) and Jessie Gap (18 km) nature parks. To the south: Old
Timers' Museum (5 km) features exhibits of 1890s era; Transport Heritage
Centre (10 km) has re-creation of a 1930s railway siding and display showing
ingenuity used to overcome outback hardships; Ghan Preservation Society
rail museum at MacDonnell Siding (10 km) features the Old Ghan which runs
on 23.5 km of private line between MacDonnell Siding and Ewaninga; Ewaninga
Rock Carvings Conservation Reserve, (35 km SE), an Aboriginal cultural
site with rock engravings; Chambers Pillar Historical Reserve (149 km)
includes 50-m high rock pillar which served as a landmark feature for
the Centre's early pioneers and explorers. To the south-west: Camel Outback
Safaris (93 km) offers camel and trail rides; Henbury Meteorites Conservation
Reserve (147 km). To the west: Grave site of Rev. John Flynn (5 km); Simpsons
Gap (25 km), also linked to Alice Springs by sealed bicycle path; Standley
Chasm (50 km). Ellery Creek Big Hole (93 km); Serpentine Gorge (104 km);
Ochre Pits (119 km), natural quarry once mined by Aborigines; Ormiston
Gorge (132 km); Glen Helen Gorge (133 km); the nearby Glen Helen Resort,
used as a base by many to explore the area; Hermannsburg (125 km); Palm
Valley, in Finke Gorge National Park (140 km, 4WD access only); Redbank
Gorge (170 km, 4WD access only); Tnorala (Gosse Bluff) meteor crater (210
km, 4WD access only, permit required, note permit for Mereenie Loop allows
access to Tnorala); most of these are in West MacDonnell National Park;
as is Larapinta Trail, a well-marked walking track through the West MacDonnell
Ranges. Mereenie Loop links Alice Springs, Kings Canyon and Uluru (Ayers
Rock) via the West MacDonnell Ranges and Glen Helen; permit required because
section of the route passes through Aboriginal Land. |